The 'Turó' at 25 + Peralada at 100
Year 13, No. 15
In 50 years from now, a child will be reading an old book and have to walk up to his or her grandparent and ask, “Please, do tell me what ‘fall’ was?”
I say that as while writing this during a trip to the Ribera del Duero region, we seem to have lost “fall” somewhere along the way in recent years. A winemaker I talked to said, “Two weeks ago it was 30C and we were in short sleeves and now it’s like the dead of winter.”
On the plus side, it’s raining with little regard for anyone’s comfort but Spain needs all the water it can get even if that means there are some soggy vineyard walks.
I can’t complain in any regard however as, despite it being two weeks ago, hanging at the corners of my palate and in that happy part of my mind, there’s the taste of el Celler de Can Roca and 25 vintages of Recaredo’s Turó d’en Mota. It was a tremendous lunch where the winery celebrated all the wines from 1999 up to the embryonic 2023 with a group of lucky souls in the wine media. I keep saying it, but many thanks to the Recaredo team for pulling off what was truly the event of the year in Spanish wine.
In some ways it took my back to another fine trip the month previous to celebrate the Centennial Anniversary of Castell de Peralada in Empordà. It should come as no surprise that both of these trips stood out not just for the wines and the setting, but for the incredible food offer in the Girona Province of Catalunya and, as there’s no way I can capture it in pure words alone, I’d recommend you to visit the region if you haven’t already.
In shifting gears to what isn't the latest and greatest (and not from the Girona Province) there’s also been an essay by guest author, Charlie Leary (*) on the fascinating link between Bordeaux and Rioja that redefines a great deal of what we’d thought about the relationship between these two mega regions of France and Spain.
I’ve been covering a lot of ground recently as well that will be forthcoming in new reports still to come this year, so do stay tuned.
Drink well, be well.
-Miquel
(*) Free to read
The Featured Report
Turó d’en Mota, 25 Harvests
An amazing wine in an amazing venue. There’s little to say when the 25 vintages of what is probably the top sparkling wine in all of Spain can speak so well for themselves, especially when served during a lunch at, three-star, Best Restaurant in the World (twice), El Celler de Can Roca.
And Now This
If you’re looking for a really well-made and uplifting film to watch, then look no further than “Blind Ambition” (*) which is about the Zimbabwean blind wine tasting team.
In what was seen as an unsurprising, yet still massive piece of news, DOC Rioja has decided to recommend suspending all new vineyard plantings (*) for the next three years.
And yes, it’s that time which comes every seven years or so with a brand-new edition of the “Oxford Companion to Wine” (*) having been released in its 5th edition!
Looking for a Grenache from DOQ Priorat with a bit of structure? Then look no further than la Fredat from Casa Gran del Siurana.
Perhaps you’re more in the mood for a DOC Rioja which in that case, La Carbonera’s Malpastor will be up your alley—quite a good value on that one.
Or lastly if it’s some wines from around where el Celler de Roca is located, then have a look at this pair from Terra Remota in DO Empordà.
The Featured Wine
For those who know me, you’re going to think I’ve lost it (and admittedly I’ve been away from home for a bit) but in this newsletter I’m recommend, yes, a Riesling.
I had the chance to taste this Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Pechstein 2014 at a friend’s house during lunch recently and… Holy Toledo what a wine.
I know it’s not cheap and I know you might not even be able to find it in your market, but I doused this beauty in 96+pts because it’s tasting incredible at the moment, although I’m sure the more recent vintages that you can get ahold of will due you a mighty fine favor as well.