You can't spell Mencía without 'mmm'
Year 14, No. 14
Well, it was inevitable. Harvest, has arrived.
While this may seem earlier than ever, as shown with sparkling producer, Gramona, up in Penedès, it’s actually four days later than it was in 2023.
Does this mean that 2024 is shaping up to be an amazing, top-end vintage that will age perfectly, and be the finest expression of wine seen to date? If you read any of the communications materials that start coming out now, you’d be tempted to believe this, until you realize it’s the same thing that’s said every year.
One day, some rebellious winery will do a vintage press release along the lines of, “Meh. It’s alright we suppose. Drink it by the pool this summer.” and we’ll love them for it.
All of the hullabaloo being made about a vintage that isn’t even fermenting yet, declaring its future glamor, makes me think back to my much less glamorous stay in Ponferrada, Bierzo in May. I haven’t been to Detroit, but I feel like Ponferrada is the Detroit of Spain in that there were heavier industries there in the past and it’s still in something of a recovery phase given that once the coal mines and power plant were shut down, Ponferrada lost a lot of jobs.
My impressions were most likely influenced by staying near the “Detroit Rock Café” which has all the appearance of being long-closed, from a glorious heyday never to be seen again, but it is apparently still open. Cash only. No outside drinks.
But the truth is that Ponferrada is somehow growing ever-so-slowly in population despite being one of the more difficult cities in Spain to reach. Some of this growth is due to the literal foot traffic of the “pilgrims” walking el Camino de Santiago as all the main routes pass through Ponferrada thus seeing a bit of spending on hostels, tapas, and beer.
The other source of income however is the wine and specifically, the wines of DO Bierzo. I was very happy to publish a new report on these wines of Mencía and Godello. I find them simply outstanding as they offer up a completely different kind of wine in Spain where the landscape is otherwise dominated by Tempranillo and Grenache wines.
Although this isn’t to throw any shade at the excellent Tempranillo and Grenache wines one does fine in Spain, especially for the latter and especially with a healthy splash of Carignan. Those were on full display at La Nit del Poble (*) that the Priorat winery, Vall Llach put on for its second edition. It was an excellent time for all except those who don’t like great food, pretty villages in Southern Europe, and of course top-tiered wines. Surely these people must exist, but I don’t know how?
Drink well, be well.
-Miquel
(*) Free to read
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